How to make any dish more delicious? Add a poached egg. I’m serious, poached eggs are not just for breakfast anymore; beautiful, perfectly cooked eggs are stepping out in some swank dishes.
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Anne Cori, Sauce Magazine
I’ve noticed this trend in St. Louis restaurants: add a poached egg and a dish gains instant black-tie status. When done correctly, this method lets the delicate flavor of the egg shine. To me, a perfectly poached egg has a set white and a warm, runny yolk. Because as my husband so astutely said last week, if you want your eggs hard, scramble ‘em.
Today’s Top 5: Last Meals*
I am unabashedly obsessed with Top Chef. Seasoned chefs (one with an Italian accent) cooking in ridiculous situations and then getting ripped to shreds by Tom Colicchio? Yes please!
A couple of weeks ago, the contestants were charged with cooking a “last supper” for a panel of the best-of-the-best in the culinary world. They created classics like roasted chicken, shrimp scampi, and Eggs Benedict. The episode got me thinking: what would be my last supper? I found it too hard to pick one, so here are 5 of my favorite foods/dishes:
- Bacon. By itself, on something, in something… whatever. Even as a meal. Just bacon.
- Eggs Benedict. I second Wylie Dufresne on this one. My favorite breakfast, hands down.
- Really good lasagna. Hand-made pasta, fresh ingredients, simple flavors… to me, a superb lasagna is the mark of a great Italian chef.
- Guacamole. My own recipe. Preferably with a margarita.
- Gumbo. A holdover from my mother’s New Orleans background, and a favorite of my childhood.
Number 5 will be making an appearance in my house tonight (and on the blog soon after) to celebrate Mardi Gras and tomorrow’s Top Chef finale in New Orleans. Go Team Carla!
*Dedicated to Celia on her birthday!
Blue Box Beware!
New President, new season of Lost, my first volume of the Journal of Law & Policy in hand… I have a lot to celebrate. And to my Southern girl palate, nothing is more celebratory than comfort food. So to ring in this happy trio, I made my absolute favorite mac and cheese.
I saw Mac & Cheese with Pancetta in Bon Appetit’s Restaurant Issue and initially blew it off. I’ve created my share of “churched-up” mac and cheese, using everything from Gorgonzola to white wine to enhance this done-and-done-again classic; the last thing I needed was another recipe. But a friend convinced me to ditch my self-made versions and give Bon Appetit’s a whirl. And holy 12-year cheddar, Batman…am I glad I did.
There are two secrets to this delectable dish: the pancetta and the cheese combination. Bacon isn’t novel in mac and cheese, but this is different. Pancetta, like bacon, is made from pork belly. But unlike its brined and smoked cousin, pancetta is seasoned and then cured, resulting in a flavorful – and to my mind, more delicate – alternative. Using pancetta as the first building block results in a cheese sauce that has a subtle, yet deep, heartiness.
The cheeses are the second genius element. The cheddar (I used an aged white) provides sharpness and depth; the Parmigiano-Reggiano is salty, nutty and a tad fruity; and the mascarpone rounds out the combination with a creamy, slightly sweet finish. I have tried tons of cheeses in pursuit of the perfect combination; I daresay these fit the bill.
Not convinced yet? You can make two main components – the cheese sauce and the panko breadcrumb crust – a day ahead. Serve some grape tomatoes (sautéed with olive oil & balsamic vinegar and tossed with a little basil) to cut the richness, and you’re done. Unless Bill and my neighbors were lying to me, and their empty plates spoke for themselves, it’s a crowd pleaser. So the next time you have something to celebrate, buy some cheese and go nuts.
Back in the Saddle… er, Kitchen
I’ve spent the summer courting a job, and unfortunately, not cooking enough. When I finally got back to St. Louis, my kitchen felt like an old friend I hadn’t seen in years. I didn’t think I would actually miss my Shun knives, but there ya go. Where to start, I thought? Luckily, my birthday came not long after my return, and my husband was smart enough to heed the (not-so-subtle) hint I dropped months ago: Rick Bayless’ Mexican Everyday.
Since I started cooking for myself, I’ve been searching for one of my all-time favorites: a good tortilla soup. Imagine my delight when I opened my new cookbook and saw Classic Tortilla Soup with All the Trimmings. Given my healthy obsession with Mexican food, I thought it was the perfect way to warm up my cutting board after months of neglect.
I have been a fan of Bayless’ for some time, and let me tell ya, he didn’t disappoint. The recipe was easy to follow, and included only one out-of-the-ordinary ingredient: a pasilla (negro) chile (at least I thought it was an exotic ingredient, until I found it at Schnuck’s). The result was worth much more trouble than I exerted: the chile and fire-roasted tomatoes lent incredible depth of flavor, while the chicken made the soup feel hearty. A warning: don’t judge the broth by itself. As I wrapped up the dish, I kept thinking something was missing. Surprise surprise, it was the tortilla chips and cheese. After I ladled the broth over them and sprinkled avocado on top, I wondered where this soup had been all my life.
It’s good to be back.
I believe that ribs should be cooked very slowly. I believe that nearly all traces of fat should be rendered during the cooking process so I may enjoy maximum flavor. I believe that there should be a smokiness imparted to the sweet flavor of the meat. I believe that if ribs are par-boiled, someone is stealing flavor from me. I believe the ribs should be tender, but not so much that all the meat comes off the bone at the slightest provocation. If the ribs are served in a pool of sauce, I believe that someone’s trying to hide something. I believe that most of the saucing should be at my discretion. I believe that some heat in the sauce is a very good thing. I believe that the best sides for ribs are coleslaw, fries and/or potato salad (though, I’ll concede, this is up to the diner). Finally, I believe that if any of these points are ignored, eating said ribs could cause irreparable damage to my psyche.
—
Dennis Lowry, Sauce Magazine
Amen. I like this guy’s dedication to the art that can be a good rib. I agree with everything he said (especially the part about saucing being at my discretion - I order dry ribs and sauce them myself), except that I prefer beans with my ribs. And like any good southern girl, I’m talking about pork. Not beef.
Last weekend I was lucky enough to dine at August in New Orleans. For those of you who don’t watch the Food Network religiously, Chef John Besh was the runner-up on The Next Iron Chef, and August is his creation. The man deserved to win; I can say with certainty that it was one of the best meals I have ever eaten (don’t even get me started on the wine). And while my star-struck self was pretty disappointed to find that Chef Besh was in New York that night, I had the pleasure of touring his kitchen and stealing a photo-op with his sous chef.
If you’re headed down to New Orleans, I highly recommend putting August on the top of your list!
Holy Guacamole
I recently started my summer clerkship in Nashville … hence the lack of posts. Today at the office, my new friends and I started talking about the glory of guacamole. To many people, “guacamole” may mean that creamy-looking green mush in a plastic container at the grocery, but I am here to tell you that that stuff is guacamole blasphemy. The real delicacy is simple to make, and when avocados have as much flavor as they do in the summer months, it is one of the best things you’ll ever eat alongside a margarita. So I can think of no better way to kick off summer than with a big bowl of my favorite green concoction.
Making guacamole is an imprecise art. Take the core ingredients and play around with them until you find your perfect balance. During the trip to Acapulco where I fell in love with true guac, I unashamedly begged a woman for her recipe.
If you’ve never made guacamole, you’ll need (1) avocados, (2) chopped white onion, (3) chopped garlic, (4) chopped serrano pepper, (5) cilantro, (6) limes, and (7) kosher or sea salt. Start with the proportions listed in this recipe and work from there.
If you do anything this summer, please let it be making your own guacamole. It’s quick and easy to make, and I guarantee you’ll never reach for the plastic container again.
Eggs Aren’t Just for Breakfast Anymore
If you’ve never tried a frittata, you’re missing out. They’re basically Italian omelets that begin on the stove and finish in the oven, but I like to think of them as crust-less quiches. All you’ll need is a non-stick skillet that’s oven-safe and a basic recipe. If you’re not already on the frittata train, here are 5 reasons why they should be in your list of staples:
- They’re fast. Factor in no more than 10 minutes for prep and 30 minutes total cooking time, and you’ve got dinner on the table.
- They’re easy. If you can chop, sauté, and crack eggs, you’re good to go. No culinary degree required.
- They’re healthy. Eggs may contain some cholesterol, but they aren’t without their benefits either. A frittata promises a light-yet-filling dinner that will carry you through swimsuit season.
- They’re endlessly customizable. There is no better use for all of those random leftover ingredients in your fridge and pantry. This week I had extra prosciutto, green onion, chopped spinach, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. So, that’s what ended up in my frittata, and I dare say it was a winner. Another favorite combination is chorizo sausage and Mahon cheese. Want a veggie option? Toss in some roasted red peppers and feta. Get your omega-3s with smoked salmon, goat cheese, and dill. As long as you give raw meat a quick cook and tough vegetables a brief sauté, the world is your oyster. Ooh… oysters could be interesting…
- They’re freaking delicious.
Hopefully I’ve convinced you to try one of my all-time favorites. Add a green salad, and you’ve got dinner. And hey – the leftovers make a great breakfast. They are eggs, after all.
