Caldwell Cooks

Back in the Saddle... er, Kitchen

Tue, 26 Aug 2008 21:46:19 -0500

I’ve spent the summer courting a job, and unfortunately, not cooking enough. When I finally got back to St. Louis, my kitchen felt like an old friend I hadn’t seen in years. I didn’t think I would actually miss my Shun knives, but there ya go. Where to start, I thought? Luckily, my birthday came not long after my return, and my husband was smart enough to heed the (not-so-subtle) hint I dropped months ago: Rick Bayless’ Mexican Everyday.

Since I started cooking for myself, I’ve been searching for one of my all-time favorites: a good tortilla soup. Imagine my delight when I opened my new cookbook and saw Classic Tortilla Soup with All the Trimmings. Given my healthy obsession with Mexican food, I thought it was the perfect way to warm up my cutting board after months of neglect.

I have been a fan of Bayless’ for some time, and let me tell ya, he didn’t disappoint. The recipe was easy to follow, and included only one out-of-the-ordinary ingredient: a pasilla (negro) chile (at least I thought it was an exotic ingredient, until I found it at Schnuck’s). The result was worth much more trouble than I exerted: the chile and fire-roasted tomatoes lent incredible depth of flavor, while the chicken made the soup feel hearty. A warning: don’t judge the broth by itself. As I wrapped up the dish, I kept thinking something was missing. Surprise surprise, it was the tortilla chips and cheese. After I ladled the broth over them and sprinkled avocado on top, I wondered where this soup had been all my life.

It’s good to be back.

"I believe that ribs should be cooked very slowly. I believe that nearly all traces of fat should be..."

Sun, 20 Jul 2008 18:00:01 -0500

““I believe that ribs should be cooked very slowly. I believe that nearly all traces of fat should be rendered during the cooking process so I may enjoy maximum flavor. I believe that there should be a smokiness imparted to the sweet flavor of the meat. I believe that if ribs are par-boiled, someone is stealing flavor from me. I believe the ribs should be tender, but not so much that all the meat comes off the bone at the slightest provocation. If the ribs are served in a pool of sauce, I believe that someone’s trying to hide something. I believe that most of the saucing should be at my discretion. I believe that some heat in the sauce is a very good thing. I believe that the best sides for ribs are coleslaw, fries and/or potato salad (though, I’ll concede, this is up to the diner). Finally, I believe that if any of these points are ignored, eating said ribs could cause irreparable damage to my psyche.””

- Dennis Lowry, Sauce Magazine

Amen. I like this guy’s dedication to the art that can be a good rib. I agree with everything he said (especially the part about saucing being at my discretion - I order dry ribs and sauce them myself), except that I prefer beans with my ribs. And like any good southern girl, I’m talking about pork. Not beef.

Last weekend I was lucky enough to dine at August in New...

Sun, 15 Jun 2008 17:06:00 -0500

Last weekend I was lucky enough to dine at August in New Orleans. For those of you who don’t watch the Food Network religiously, Chef John Besh was the runner-up on The Next Iron Chef, and August is his creation. The man deserved to win; I can say with certainty that it was one of the best meals I have ever eaten (don’t even get me started on the wine). And while my star-struck self was pretty disappointed to find that Chef Besh was in New York that night, I had the pleasure of touring his kitchen and stealing a photo-op with his sous chef.

If you’re headed down to New Orleans, I highly recommend putting August on the top of your list!

Holy Guacamole

Wed, 21 May 2008 19:55:30 -0500

I recently started my summer clerkship in Nashville … hence the lack of posts. Today at the office, my new friends and I started talking about the glory of guacamole. To many people, “guacamole” may mean that creamy-looking green mush in a plastic container at the grocery, but I am here to tell you that that stuff is guacamole blasphemy. The real delicacy is simple to make, and when avocados have as much flavor as they do in the summer months, it is one of the best things you’ll ever eat alongside a margarita. So I can think of no better way to kick off summer than with a big bowl of my favorite green concoction.

Making guacamole is an imprecise art. Take the core ingredients and play around with them until you find your perfect balance. During the trip to Acapulco where I fell in love with true guac, I unashamedly begged a woman for her recipe.

If you’ve never made guacamole, you’ll need (1) avocados, (2) chopped white onion, (3) chopped garlic, (4) chopped serrano pepper, (5) cilantro, (6) limes, and (7) kosher or sea salt. Start with the proportions listed in this recipe and work from there.

If you do anything this summer, please let it be making your own guacamole. It’s quick and easy to make, and I guarantee you’ll never reach for the plastic container again.

Eggs Aren't Just for Breakfast Anymore

Sun, 04 May 2008 11:56:00 -0500

If you’ve never tried a frittata, you’re missing out. They’re basically Italian omelets that begin on the stove and finish in the oven, but I like to think of them as crust-less quiches. All you’ll need is a non-stick skillet that’s oven-safe and a basic recipe. If you’re not already on the frittata train, here are 5 reasons why they should be in your list of staples:

They’re fast. Factor in no more than 10 minutes for prep and 30 minutes total cooking time, and you’ve got dinner on the table.
They’re easy. If you can chop, sauté, and crack eggs, you’re good to go. No culinary degree required.
They’re healthy. Eggs may contain some cholesterol, but they aren’t without their benefits either. A frittata promises a light-yet-filling dinner that will carry you through swimsuit season.
They’re endlessly customizable. There is no better use for all of those random leftover ingredients in your fridge and pantry. This week I had extra prosciutto, green onion, chopped spinach, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. So, that’s what ended up in my frittata, and I dare say it was a winner. Another favorite combination is chorizo sausage and Mahon cheese. Want a veggie option? Toss in some roasted red peppers and feta. Get your omega-3s with smoked salmon, goat cheese, and dill. As long as you give raw meat a quick cook and tough vegetables a brief sauté, the world is your oyster. Ooh… oysters could be interesting…
They’re freaking delicious.

Hopefully I’ve convinced you to try one of my all-time favorites. Add a green salad, and you’ve got dinner. And hey – the leftovers make a great breakfast. They are eggs, after all.

"In cooking you’ve got to have a what-the-hell attitude."

Thu, 24 Apr 2008 09:52:00 -0500

“In cooking you’ve got to have a what-the-hell attitude.”

- Julia Child

Muffins for the Magistrate

Thu, 17 Apr 2008 21:10:00 -0500

Yesterday was my last day of work at the federal courthouse, so I figured muffins were in order. I made what have quickly become my favorite brunch treat: Cherry-~~Poppy Seed~~ Pecan Muffins. Why the change? The original muffins, courtesy of Tyler Florence’s Real Kitchen, are Cherry-Poppy Seed. I have nothing against poppy seeds; in fact, I love them in muffins. But the first time I made these, I happened to have extra pecans (and no poppy seeds) on hand; thus was born the variation. I loved the combination so much that I still haven’t tried the original version.

These muffins are simple to make, and you probably have most of the ingredients in your pantry. The dried cherries, pecans, and orange zest are the best beginning to a day I can imagine. What makes this recipe unique is the muffin texture; it’s almost like a sweet cornbread. If you have even the slightest affinity for cornbread, you’ll be hooked after one bite.

Thanks to Phyllis, Sara, and Judge Audrey Fleissig for welcoming me into your chambers - and I’m glad you enjoyed the muffins!

The Exams-start-in-less-than-a-week-but-I-still-want-something-delicious-(complete-with-bacon) Dinner.

Thu, 17 Apr 2008 20:38:24 -0500

I’m a law student, which means weeknights are typically pretty busy. Exam period starts next Monday, so that craze is now accompanied by a decent amount of stress. Does all of this mean dinner should suffer? I think not.

Bacon and Swiss Chard Pasta was made for busy cooks, and is my recommendation for your next weeknight meal. It involves minimal prep work and yields a result that my husband and I agreed was scrumptious.

Perhaps my favorite thing about this recipe is that it utilizes very few ingredients to achieve an impressive balance of flavor. The bacon and Parmesan provide the essential saltiness, the swiss chard is slightly bitter, the balsamic vinegar added at the end supplies a subtle tartness, and the red onion rounds out the dish with a sweet finish. I was surprised by how all of these seemingly pungent ingredients came together to produce a subtle - but extremely tasty - dish.

If you’re like me and busy tonight, but still want a nice way to end the day, try this pasta from Bon Appetit’s May 2008 issue. Can you really go wrong with bacon?

(Bon Appetit - Linda Hubbard to be exact - gets credit for the picture. I lost my camera at law school and am buttering up my husband for a new one - hopefully original pics to come.)

I Lied about It Being Spring

Sun, 13 Apr 2008 20:30:00 -0500

Apparently, St. Louis is not finished with the winter weather. Case in point: it snowed this morning. I’m from Mississippi; April is meant for sundresses and (if you’re a redhead like me) a thick slathering of self-tanner. However, the unexpected return of the cold weather provided an opportunity for me to continue my search for the perfect chili. Have I found it? Still not sure.

We’ve tried everything from chicory to chocolate in our chilis, so this time I wanted a more traditional take. I turned to my collection of cookbooks and noticed that Bill and I had yet to make anything from one of our wedding presents, Bride & Groom First and Forever Cookbook. I won’t lie, the name turns me off a little bit. The recipes looked promising though, so we took the plunge and made Texas Chili with All the Fixin’s.

The consensus was a solid “make again.” We both felt that it was a decent go-to chili, especially with the addition of Italian sausage and chipotles. It was a tad sweeter than I like my chili, but a nice effort all around. And it gave me an opportunity to drink some Mexican beer (my beer of choice - in fact, pretty much all I drink) so I’m not complaining.

Am I ready for skimpy summer clothes? Yes. But was I thrilled to have the opportunity to continue the never-ending quest for the perfect chili? Absolutely.

(Note: this recipe makes a ton of leftovers, and chili is always better when it has had time to sit. Make the whole recipe and freeze what’s left.)

You Say Tomato, I Say Delicious

Wed, 09 Apr 2008 21:07:53 -0500

I am constantly searching for the perfect side-dish, and last night I found a staple to add to my repertoire as I was flipping through my Everyday Italian cookbook (a gift from my mom after a trip to Italy). I was sold when I saw the picture of Stuffed Tomatoes, and the real thing didn’t disappoint. With a little bite left in the rice, the fresh kick of herbs, and the background of Parmesan, these tomatoes are an easy (and beautiful) way to spice up a weeknight meal.

Perfect for a Sunday Night

Tue, 08 Apr 2008 21:14:40 -0500

I like to end my Sundays with something tasty, but not too high maintenance; it makes the weekend seem to linger, especially now that the days are getting long. Grilled Tilapia with Smoked Paprika and Parmesan Polenta fits the Sunday night bill. Another good one from Cooking Light, this recipe is delicious, inexpensive, and fast.

Tilapia is a mild, flakey fish that, in my experience, is extremely newbie-friendly. The rub used in this recipe caramelizes in the grill pan, leaving crispy edges around the fish (what my family lovingly refers to as “the good”). The polenta (which screams for authentic Parmigiano-Reggiano, so again, spring for the good stuff) perfectly complements the fish. Round out the spread with “something green” for balance; try pan-roasted broccoli instead of the broccoli rabe the magazine suggests.

A couple of suggestions: I added a shake or two of cayenne to the rub (I like things to burn a least a little; I fault Bill and my dad). Also, I found the garlic powder a bit overwhelming the first time I made this. Go just shy of what the recipe calls for, and you’ll end up with the right balance.

Another reason to make this on a weekend: everything comes together at once, so four hands are better than two. Offer a friend, spouse, or neighbor a glass of wine in exchange for whisking the polenta.

And speaking of wine, this dish goes great with a bottle of white. We had the Protocolo Bianco 2006.

Kicking off Spring, Risotto Style

Mon, 07 Apr 2008 20:44:28 -0500

Yesterday was, for all intents and purposes, the first day of spring in St. Louis. To celebrate, my husband and I bought some herbs at Home Depot, opened all the windows, and I made Risotto with Spring Vegetables and Smoked Ham. This recipe is from the April 2008 issue of Cooking Light, which has quickly become my favorite magazine (with Bon Appetit coming in a very close 2nd). I have made it my goal to try at least one new recipe a week, and this risotto comes highly recommended.

If you’re a risotto virgin, don’t be scared; it’s not nearly as difficult as it looks. After your first try, you will realize this Italian classic is an imprecise art which can take on whatever character you choose. One thing that’s particularly appealing about this recipe is the rice to vegetable-and-other-good-stuff ratio. I don’t like having to search for the accouterments in my risotto, and this recipe was not lacking in said accouterments. With tons of vegetables, smoked ham, and Parmigiano-Reggiano (get the real stuff - it makes all the difference), this recipe is a must, especially when vegetables are at their peak.

Add a glass of dry white wine, and you’re good to go.